If you've spent any time staring at your project car lately, you might have noticed the 67 camaro leaf springs are looking a bit tired. It's a classic sight: that saggy rear end that makes the car look like it's perpetually hauling a trunk full of lead bricks. After more than fifty years of holding up a heavy steel body, those original factory springs have usually given up the ghost. They're either flat, inverted, or just plain crusty.
Getting the suspension right is one of those things that completely changes how you feel about your car. It's not just about the "cool factor" of having a nice stance, though that's a huge part of it. It's about how the car reacts when you hit a pothole or how it plants the tires when you decide to get a little heavy-handed with the gas pedal. Let's dig into what you need to know about swapping them out and why it matters.
The Great Mono-Leaf vs. Multi-Leaf Debate
If you own a '67, you probably know that Chevy did things a little differently that year. Most of the standard models came equipped with mono-leaf springs. It was exactly what it sounds like: one single, thick piece of spring steel. While it provided a relatively smooth ride for a 1960s commuter, it wasn't exactly built for performance.
If you're sticking with a purely stock restoration and you aren't planning on making big horsepower, there's nothing inherently wrong with keeping the mono-leaf setup. It keeps the car original. However, most guys working on 67 camaro leaf springs these days are looking for a bit more stability. The problem with mono-leafs is "wrap-up." When you accelerate hard, that single leaf wants to twist into an S-shape, which leads to the dreaded wheel hop.
Multi-leaf springs, usually found on the high-performance Z28 or SS models back in the day, use a stack of leaves to provide more progressive support. They're much better at resisting that twisting motion. The tricky part is that the mounting perches on the rear axle are different for mono-leaf and multi-leaf setups. If you're switching from one to the other, you'll need to deal with some spacer blocks or, ideally, weld on the correct perches to make sure everything sits right.
Choosing the Right Ride Height
Stance is everything. You can have the best paint job in the world, but if the car is sitting like a 4x4 or dragging its bumper, it just looks off. When you start shopping for 67 camaro leaf springs, you'll see options for "stock height," "1-inch drop," and "2-inch drop."
Here's the thing: "stock height" on a modern replacement spring might actually sit higher than your worn-out originals. Remember, your old springs have sagged over five decades. If you buy stock replacements, don't be surprised if the car looks like it's on stilts for the first few hundred miles while the new steel settles in.
Personally, I think a 1-inch or 1.5-inch drop spring is the sweet spot for a street-driven '67. It gets rid of that awkward gap between the tire and the fender without making the car impossible to drive over a speed bump. Plus, lower springs usually have a slightly higher spring rate, which means the car won't feel like a boat when you're taking a corner.
Don't Forget the Hardware
It's tempting to just buy the springs and think you're done, but that's a recipe for a mid-project hardware store run. When you're pulling out those old 67 camaro leaf springs, you are going to encounter some seriously stubborn bolts.
You're going to want new U-bolts, shackles, and bushings. Truth be told, your old U-bolts are probably stretched and shouldn't be reused anyway. And those rubber bushings? They're likely cracked and dry-rotted.
When it comes to bushings, you've got choices. Rubber is great if you want a quiet, soft ride. Polyurethane is much stiffer and improves handling, but it can be prone to squeaking if you don't grease the heck out of it during installation. Then there's the high-end stuff like Delrin, which is amazing for track cars but might be overkill if you're just cruising to the local Saturday morning meet.
The Installation: A Weekend in the Garage
Swapping out leaf springs isn't rocket science, but it is a "dirty" job. You're going to be working under the car, likely covered in years of road grime and rust flakes. My best advice? Start soaking every nut and bolt in a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster a few days before you plan to start the work.
One thing that trips a lot of people up is the front eye bolt. It's tucked inside a pocket in the frame, and if that bolt is rusted to the inner sleeve of the bushing, it can be a nightmare to get out. Sometimes you just have to get the Sawzall out and cut the bolt. It happens to the best of us.
Safety is huge here, too. You're dealing with a heavy rear axle and a car that needs to be high enough off the ground for you to maneuver. Use high-quality jack stands and never trust a hydraulic floor jack to hold the car up while you're under it.
Pro tip: Do not tighten the shackle bolts or the front eye bolts all the way while the car is still up on stands. If you torque them down with the suspension hanging, you'll "lock" the bushings in that position. When you drop the car back on the ground, the bushings will be under constant stress, which leads to a harsh ride and premature failure. Wait until the car is sitting on its own weight, then do your final tightening.
Tackling the "While You're In There" List
Once you have the 67 camaro leaf springs out of the way, you have a perfect opportunity to look at a few other things. It's the classic "project creep," but in this case, it actually makes sense.
Check your shocks. If they look oily or you can compress them with one hand without any resistance, they're toasted. New shocks paired with new leaf springs will make the car feel brand new. Also, take a look at your brake lines and the rear fuel tank. Since you have all that room now, it's a lot easier to inspect things that are normally hidden.
If you're building something with a bit of power, you might also consider adding some traction aids. CalTracs or traditional traction bars can work wonders alongside your new leaf springs to keep the rear end planted. Even a mild small block can cause a lot of leaf spring distortion if you're running modern, sticky tires.
Why Quality Matters
It's easy to find cheap leaf springs online, but this is one area where you really get what you pay for. Cheap springs often use inferior steel that sags within a year, or the arch isn't consistent between the left and right sides. There's nothing more frustrating than finishing a big job only to realize your car is leaning half an inch to the left.
Investing in a reputable brand ensures that the spring rate is what they claim it is and that the steel has been heat-treated properly. You want something that will hold its shape for the next twenty years, not just the next twenty miles.
Final Thoughts on the Drive
After you've wrestled with the rusty bolts, swapped the bushings, and finally torqued everything down, the first drive is always a revelation. A '67 Camaro with fresh leaf springs feels planted. It doesn't "float" over the road, and it doesn't feel like it's going to bottom out every time you hit a dip.
It's one of those upgrades that might not be as flashy as a new intake manifold or a shiny set of wheels, but it's arguably more important for the actual enjoyment of the car. If you're on the fence about replacing your 67 camaro leaf springs, just go for it. Your back, your tires, and your car's silhouette will thank you. Plus, you'll finally be able to drive over a speed bump without cringing, and that alone is worth the effort.